Walking in Europe

Passo Falzarego to Passo Giau

After our amazing transit bus day (really a success story of int’l budget travel: to make all those transfers, decode all those schedules, and arrive at our destination in good humour- ok, there was one disagreement..) from Canazei to Toblach, we had a reasonable night in the tent at the campground in Villabassa. The campsite allowed us to store a bunch of gear with them the next day so we could walk with a much lighter load from Lago di Braise (accessed by transit bus right at the campsite) and complete stage 1 of the Alta Via 1 trail to Rifugio Biella. So began our day on September 15. Lago di Braises is very similar to Lake Louise- a beautiful alpine turquoise lake at the base of dramatic peaks with an old stately hotel along the shoreline; a walking path completely around the lake, huge parking lot and cafes, souvenir shops, a bus stop, and a large number of tourists. To access the AV1 trailhead we wandered along the shoreline with the crowd, and then began our ascent up switchbacks and successive low passes, even a section with those darned cable handholds again. But it was a decent hike and we arrived at Refugio Biella in time to have a nap in the sun on some recliners while lunch was being served to other through hikers, check in, and walk an additional four kms out into the rolling terrain backdropped with enormous peaks and limestone escarpments all around.

Rifugio Biella was friendly but barebones: 48 guests, bunk beds with snorers, three squat toilets (only 2 worked and also doubled as showers- we didn’t use the showers). Quite a queue at wash times! But we met some nice people at our table from France, Australia, Canada, and Japan. Sleep wasn’t great. Along with the snoring, Ali had a mouse rummaging in her pack …

September 16 was a later start as we waited for an intense rain to pass through and by 10 we were on the trail retracing our steps back to Lago di Braises and the bus back to Toblach and the campsite. A really nice overnighter.

September 17 we packed up early, had a “tent breakfast” and took the bus to the town of Cortina (lots of construction activity prepping for the 2026 Winter Olympics) where we had a few hours to look around before boarding another bus to Passo Falzarego and the trailhead to our hike to Averau Col and our Rifugio. We were mid afternoon by the time we were on the trail and it started so easy! But soon became a bit more challenging as we approached the pass. A few narrow gaps in the rock to navigate then on to the pass and a with-contour up and down to the Rifugio Averau. This part was tricky as it crossed an exposed talus slope at the base of a spire above us. But we took it slowly and stuck together and made it in time for dinner (the dinner was amazing- worth the struggle!).

September 18…After breakfast at Averau we walked down the kilometre to the main Col to the very dramatic Cinque Torri, a well known Dolomiti landmark, rock climber mecca, ski hill and open air museum/war memorial from WW1 (the trenches here were at 8000 ft, some as high as 12,000..). We returned to Averau to gather our packs and hike out to a very nice Rifugio at Passo Giau where we had a lovely stay last night in the Rifugio right on the highway.

September 19… with buses now moving to fall schedule (ie. no longer running), we have just finished walking from Passo Giau into Cortina. 3000 ft descent and 15 kms along a mostly pleasant easy trail through meadows and woods with a few sections along the side of the highway. This afternoon we are back in the tent at “Camping Cortina” campground. Tomorrow we head to the Tre Cime area.

PS… this picture from a different exhibit, but a glimpse of the young soldiers of the Tyrol who were in those trenches. Many will be buried in local cemeteries. I’m always moved by pictures like these.