Travel Notes and Pictures

Oct 30…

Yesterday, with the weather due to change by evening we made our way from Sinuwa down the hill slopes of the Chhomrong River and crossed the suspension bridge where we climbed back up to the village of Chhomrong. We picked up some baked goods at a bakery for all four of us, and had a coffee break at the guesthouse where we had left some of our stuff on our ascent. Hire was now loaded back down for the rest of the downhill walk into Jhinudanda where we had a late lunch and a very nice room (incredible view of the Modi valley) in a guesthouse owned by good friends of Bharat’s. It was a sunny afternoon, so we got caught up on laundry and reorganizing our luggage.

Yesterday the Nepal Govt has closed the ABC trail above Deurali and trekkers are now being sent down from locations above there or turned back at Deurali due to expected snow accumulations above 3000m, so we feel incredibly fortunate to have been able to spend a couple of days at ABC just in time. 🏔️🥾

This morning Bharat suggested that the best option would be to continue on to Landruk. There was rain overnight, and cloudy this morning, but the forecast was for heavy rain in the afternoon which would give us time to cover the 6 kms to Landruk and get past a section of trail that is not fun in a deluge. We are down in the +/-2000m range so it’s quite warm to hike.

We set off after breakfast and had a lovely walk through a newly dampened rainforest (with some amazing bird life – a flock of neon green parakeets flew by at one point), and over a couple of impressive (and thankfully new) suspension bridges.

Bharat made a very good prediction; we covered the distance before lunch and as we arrived it has started to rain more intensely. We’re now enjoying the afternoon at a very nice guesthouse, sitting on the covered verandah with the rain coming down. Warm, dry, content!

With the weather change and snow now above 3000m, our ascent to Mardi Himal is now closed until the weather improves, so we may rearrange our route. For now we’re just enjoying the walking through this beautiful part of the world. 🌍

Sound files

Quick post: I fixed the glitches in yesterday’s upload, so if you are receiving notification links, you can now see the revised post yesterday with all the photos now uploaded, and using the full url https://angusgraeme.ca/

Today (Oct 28) we retraced our steps 9.5 km further down the Modi valley starting in Himalaya this morning and passing through Dobhan and Bamboo before reaching Sinuwa for a late lunch and slow afternoon (hot showers!). Amazing what you miss when travelling on a trail in one direction when you see things coming from the opposite direction. The scenery was equally spectacular with Fishtail Peak (Machhapuchhre) our constant companion.

I’m just getting over a head cold, and Ali is in the middle of one; combined with our tummy turmoil yesterday has left us a little low on energy, so an afternoon nap is looking pretty good.

Tomorrow we will walk to Chhomrong to pick up some things we left there on our way up, then continue on to Jhinu Danda where we will reassess our plans for the Mardi Himal part of our trip. Heavy rains and winds are forecast (Cyclone Arnab is crossing the Bay of Bengal and soon to make landfall 😮💨) starting tomorrow evening for a few days, and snow accumulation is expected above 3000m, so we may make a new plan. Stay tuned!

You could take a thousand pictures and still not fully capture the beauty!

October 27 post but not uploaded till today (October 28)

We spent two nights in the Annapurna Base Camp and we’re glad we did because it allowed a bit of a rest day, and a day to enjoy the magnificence of the Annapurna glacier basin with some perfect weather and views. Yesterday morning we woke early and were able to take in a beautiful dawn, lighting up the rim of the peaks. The down filled pants that we bought for the trip turned out to be a good investment as it was about -5C at daybreak and we were freezing! After sunrise and after breakfast we hiked up a rough trail that climbed the sidewall above the base camp guesthouses. Not a great trail, but Bharat and I were able to push up to 4380m before sitting down on the steep grassy slope. We had an amazing view of the receding glacial path of the last century. Bharat pointed out where the glacier’s toe was when he started guiding 27 years ago, and the retreat distance is quite jarring.

In the afternoon Ali and I wandered further up the lateral moraine and rocks to look up at the Annapurna IV peak’s hanging glaciers. Everywhere you look there’s another photograph! The temperature drops pretty quickly after sundown; there’s no heating in the guesthouse rooms so we typically go to dinner early as it’s warmer in the dining area from all the body warmth and we linger after to read, catch up on email, and stay warm.

This morning we took in another sunrise then started the 10 km descent back down the trail that we walked up a couple of days ago.

Today was the first day where we experienced tummy troubles. It was so fortuitous that our tummies rebelled at exactly the same time just as we were passing the Machhapucchhre Base Camp where we were able to quickly access neighbouring toilet stalls at a guesthouse. Quite a damper on an otherwise beautiful morning! A double dose of Imodium seems to have quelled the rebellion (for now)…

We had a very light lunch and calming lemon honey ginger tea at Deurali then continued down the masterpiece of a rock staircase into Himalaya village where we are staying tonight. Hot shower and clean bunk at just below 3000m means a warmer night and a bit more oxygen. Pretty pooped tonight, but grateful for another bluebird day of walking. Bharat and Hire continue to do an amazing job of looking after us!

We have made it to the Annapurna Base Camp at 4130m ! 🙂🏔️🥾

Yesterday, we left our guest house at Upper Dobhan (2520m) and continued our walk along the steep canyon sidewalls and forest above the Modi River, passing the guesthouses further along at Himalaya where will stay on our walk out. Some very long steep pitches of steps here. Beautifully made but never ending it seemed! But yesterday was a shortish day, arriving at Deurali (3200m) village at lunch time, and with a decent elevation gain of about 1000m. As we approached Deurali from below the valley opens up wider and you begin to see snow covered peaks through the steep side canyons. Dramatic-height waterfalls are everywhere it seems. Incredible evening light in the valley below as you’ll see in the pics.

This morning we left Deurali after breakfast and began the last 7.5 kms slow trudge up the remainder of the headwaters of the Modi River, leaving the forest and low brush for a grassy alpine tundra, and swinging West at the Machhapuchhre Base Camp and following the alpine valley that used to hold the South Annapurna Glacier. Pacing was deliberately slow as the altitude made you gasp for an extra couple of breaths once in a while. But frequent stops for water, some electrolytes, and a dextrose tablet seemed to allow us to avoid the altitude sickness meds we brought. And we made it just after noon to the Annapurna Base Camp at 4130m. So about another 1000m climb today. It’s so amazing to now be on the other side of the Annapurna South peak that seemed so far away from the viewpoint at Poon Hill! We set a slow pace but have walked so far!

Sound file: flute player at Deurali

Chhomrong-Upper Sinuwa-Upper Dobhan

We are in a small (somewhat rough) guesthouse tonight in Upper Dobhan village after walking this morning from Upper Sinuwa and the day before from Chhomrong. The “Upper” prefix denotes an extra one or two guesthouses further up the trail with additional capacity available to trekkers unable to find a bunk in the main villages.

We’ve had two relatively short days as we have worked our way up the very steep Khola Valley which takes us closer to the Annapurna Base Camp area. We’re into a nice routine: hiking in the morning and afternoons settling into a guesthouse, reading, etc. and catching up on altitude (which hasn’t posed any challenge yet). The trail is now quite busy as a couple of other routes to the Annapurna Base Camp have now converged. We’ve met trekkers from all over the world: the UK, Germany, Italy, India, Bangladesh, Japan, China. The last two days have been mostly along contour, but with some short, very steep pitches through rhodo-hardwood forests, mixed with bamboo and shrub species; steep cliffs and high waterfalls. Today we made slow progress toward “Fishtail” Peak, and this evening are in a steep part of the canyon so not much for views. We have one more night in transit tomorrow and then the final push to Annapurna Base Camp.

Two day traverse through rhododendron forests, steep gorges, hill slope farms, and beautiful views of Annapurna peaks.

This afternoon we are enjoying a rest in our guesthouse room overlooking the Modi Khloa (River) valley which we will begin a three day walk up the sidewall to eventually make the Annapurna Base Camp.

To get here, the last two days walk has been incredible. We started yesterday early from Ghorepani and climbed up, up through almost mythical rhododendron stands along an ancient and precisely made rock path up to the Deurali Pass (3090m), then down, down through a very steep jungle gorge (losing about 500m elevation) to cross Bhurungdi creek before making our way back up the sidewall through a very cool and dense forest. Lunch was a plate of the ubiquitous yummy Dal Bhat after which we continued to a saddle pass at Tadapani where we checked into a lovely family run Hotel Panorama Point guesthouse (2670m). As we arrived one of the gardeners from the hotel was banging pots and pans to shoo away an impressive pack of monkeys who were making off with several heads of cabbage. The dining area had a warm woodstove where we’re able to warm up before dinner. Little comforts go a long way! 9.6 kms today.

This morning we were up early again to catch a glorious dawn and sunrise in crystal clear skies and dramatic peaks. After breakfast we hiked down, down along more beautifully made steps to the valley bottom where a good sized suspension bridge awaited to cross the Kimrong River at Ghurnung. Then back up, up to the hill slopes and a narrow path to lunch at Taulung, then on to finish today’s walk at the village of Chhomrong (2170m) and another very clean and comfortable guesthouse. Laundry day, so we did a hand wash of socks and other essentials which are now out in the sun drying while we enjoy our afternoon cuppa overlooking the valley below. 9.3 kms today.

Assorted Sound Files

PS today is the main day of the Dashain Festival in Nepal, the main autumn festival lasting 15 days. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dashain

Yesterday we made our way from Ulleri at 2070m elevation up through a subtropical jungle forest and along mountain streams to Ghorepani village at 2860m. So a big climb for us old folk! But the trail is literally stone steps so very easy. The only negative was occasionally criss crossing or walking short distances along the new road built in to Ghorepani. One of the tree species in the canopy was rhododendron. Huge trees and must be an amazing spectacle when in flower usually March April.

Ghorepani is a very pretty little village of guest houses and small hill farms built right on the saddle leading into the next valley to the North. The stonework is magnificent and the walkways swept every day.

This morning we were out of bed and dressed by 4:30 am and with Bharat and Hire, and warm clothes and headlamps took the 1 hour path up to the Poon Hill lookout at 3210m for a panoramic view of the Annapurna peaks and ranges to the NW and SE. This morning for the first time we both felt a bit of the altitude catch up with us as we hit the 10,000’ mark. From the viewpoint, Barat pointed out our route for the coming days as we will plod closer to the Annapurna Base Camp.

Now back at the guesthouse, we’ve had a yummy breakfast and will spend today letting our systems adjust and appreciating an amazing part of the planet.

Great warm up day: 9km and 3000’ elevation gain!

Yesterday we took a short flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara where we stayed the night to start the trek today. We didn’t have much time in Pokhara but had a very nice afternoon nap (jet lag!) and yummy dinner near the hotel.

Bhagwat has set us up with a really lovely guide and porter: Bharat and Hire (pronounced Heer-ah). Bharat has been a guide for 27 years all over the Himalaya. Hire is amazing – packing a good chunk of our stuff in duffels, his pack, and a box of fruit, all with a head strap and a huge smile..

This morning we all met at the hotel and started early with a drive from Pokhara to Nayapul, just inside the Annapurna Conservation Area and the trailhead.

What a beautiful day of hiking: through sub tropical forest, farms, villages and guest houses. The first part of the path was along a gravel road so not as nice but pretty soon we were walking an ancient stone trail, across suspension bridges, and up steep hand built stone switchbacks literally straight up. We had a yummy lunch of dal bhat in a guesthouse along the way. The last part of the trail was 3 kms seemingly straight up but so beautiful.

Tonight we are in a very nice guest house in Ulleri with hot showers and a comfy bunk.

Arrived in Kathmandu last night after a very long trip in the air: from Vancouver to Seattle 45 mins, then 16 hours to Singapore, with only an hour to get to our gate for the 5 hour flight to Kathmandu. Quite tired on arrival but Ali had applied for our tourist visas prior to leaving Canada so we were able to avoid at least one long queue! Outside the airport Subas, the driver was waiting for us and dropped us at our hotel where we had a pretty good sleep. This morning we met Bhagwat after breakfast who introduced us to our tour guide Badri for the day around Kathmandu. Badri and Subas took us to four cultural heritage sites: the Sayambhu UNESCO World Heritage Site (Monkey Temple), the Hanumandhoka Durbar square (including the residence of the living goddess who is a Buddha descendant – the current child is only 3 years old and will serve 10 years before returning to her family), the Shree Boudhanath Stupa (massive prayer shrine and solid dome and 13 step steeple illustrating the levels of enlightenment), and the Pashupatinath Temple (and Hindu crematorium). So much interesting information from Badri about Hindu and Buddhist traditions and beliefs! (Eg three human instincts people must work hard to overcome: greed/desire, anger, ignorance)

Tomorrow we fly to Pokhara for the night, then the trek begins!

7:34 am in Seattle airport…

Sitting in the Seattle airport with a couple of hours before we board the plane to Singapore then on to Kathmandu.

Yesterday we left Nelson (ablaze in fall colours) after breakfast and drove to Vancouver in a beautiful fall day in the West Kootenay and along Highway 3: the Paulson, Boundary country, Anarchist Summit, Similkameen River, the Hope-Princeton. Coffee at the Deadwood Cafe in Greenwood and lunch at Thomasina’s in Princeton. And wow, 5 km/hr bumper to bumper from Chilliwack to the South Fraser Hwy 17 turnoff.

Up at 3 am this morning to get to YVR in time for our 6 am flight to Seattle where we await the flight to Singapore.

Not since our trip in 1986/87 have we had flags on our packs, we’ve put them back on. Pride and gratitude for our special country and an excitement to get back on the trail far from home and experience a beautiful culture and an amazing landscape. 🇨🇦🇳🇵